Come Eidul Fitr and a massive last-minute hunt is launched for the perfect jorra replete with lace, beaded borders and frills. This year, Icon makes it easier for all the women out there by narrowing their choices and giving a sneak peek into what some of the most sought-after designers are offering in terms of Eid pret
Crimson X by Saira Shakira
^ proverbial holy battle against vice, has never really been one for sartorial statements. Eidul Fitr, in tact, with its predilections towards mehndi, bangles l and ethnicity has always been more of a traditional affair.
Commercial ly-savvy designers — and there are so many of them now — ^ know this and Eid collections tend to be beautiful, as opposed to cutting-edge. S Unfortunately, at the hands of the untalented, beautiful can also be boring. J Take your pick of any Eid exhibition taking place in your city and you’re likely to encounter cottons in soft pastel shades and the colour du jour, a classic ^ .’ crispy white. The hues and the lightweight fabric make sense simply because V Eid this year is likely to be swelteringly. unbearably hot. So far, so good. 1 \ But splayed out on this pretty canvas is usually a repetitive concoction of applique mixed with lace, running into chikcrn finishings with a dash Hi’ of beaded borders and frills. There is also a favourite buzzword doing the rounds and it’s called ‘chikcinkari’. This delicate shadow-work was having ■jji^ a high fashion moment about a year-and-a-half ago. That moment has now K? been prolonged to eternity and, although it remains beautiful, chikcinkari R is now completely ubiquitous.
r. Very few instances of chikcinkari, such as in Image Fabrics’ version t. • which is worked with gotci, stand out. In general, though, most Eid exhibits jf boast the same chikankari as the Pakhtun vendors sitting in Aashiana or V// Liberty Market. Shockingly, sometimes both have the same fabric! St That’s another crib one has against Eid designer-wear. In their frenzy rioS to create appealing, commercial design, most brands don’t try to add j2» personal touches to their collections. A trip is simply made to a favourite ^^^ market down the block, swathes of fabrics and finishings are picked up
and, then, patched together. Nothing very trendy about that. ^^^ Then again, what does stand out in Eid fashion? More than anything, ‘ -KM it’s the dupatta. Fashion week season may have just culminated but L.H designers have curbed out-of-the-box creativity for now, going all out desi. *Tis the season, after all.
FASHION GOES OLD SCHOOL
Having traversed the holy route in Ramzan, the dupatta asserts itself with great gusto come Eid. This scarf is hardly ever visible on the runway or even in fashion shoots, except those dedicated to lawn. Festive-wear line-ups.
though, have plenty of beautiful dupatta options.
“On Eid, people like to go back to their roots,” observes designer Rizwan Beyg. “They opt for shalwar kameez and dupattcis. The only thing that may vary within a collection is the length of the shirt! Also, if there is any experimentation at all, it is in the lowers, which may range from bell bottoms to choorridars, pants and, particularly popular with my clientele, different versions of the shalwar
Maliha Aziz of Farah Talib Aziz confirms this. “This time round we created four handworked dupattcis that could be purchased as separates and they really sold well,” she says. “Also, we provided dupattas with our silk tunics and it was really noticeable that customers were more inclined towards buying those particular designs ”
Another traditional staple rearing its head in most collections is the classic cotton gharara. Designer Zara Shahjahan, with her predilection for ethnic fashion, has incorporated ghararas, choorridars and narrow slialwars in her Eid line, pairing them with kurtas and dupattcis. The Eid collection at Maheen Khan’s high-street label. Gulabo, is also playing to a desi tune.
“The lightweight cotton gharara makes a lot of sense this Eid and it can be paired with a simple shirt or a more embellished one,” says Maheen Khan. “So do purely Eastern designs such as the peshwaaz and the angcirkha.